26th December Ushuia – Cerro Sombrero 269 miles

Packed up and left about midday and started to retrace our steps, this is the first time we have had to go back on ourselves but there is only one way in and out of Ushuia. No need to stop for photos this time and we are able to enjoy the scenery and winding roads through the mountains. As soon as we are through the mountains we are back to long straight roads with slight bends in them that you do not even need to slow down for. The transition is quite sudden and you could easily think that you had been transported to a different country.
After 80 miles we pass Frank finally heading to Ushuia, we stop and turn around but he is obviously desperate to get there and carries on relentlessly.
Once in Rio Grande we refuel the bikes and top up with water and head off towards the Chilean border. There are a couple of spots of rain but nothing to speak of, but this very gradually increases in intensity and I realise that the spray from the rear wheel has soaked through to my trousers. It is now chucking it down and Martin finally stops and I said ‘Too late’, we both acknowledge that if it had suddenly started to pour we would have stopped and put on waterproofs but it came on so gradually. The border crossing is just 2 or 3 miles down the road and we both dive in the toilets and change and waterproof up.
Paperwork done we come out and it has stopped raining, marvellous. Now on ripio for 80 miles and there are 2 ways of doing this, on the way down we did the East side, which is the one most of the lorries use. On the way back we take the West side, we had been told this was much better, certainly the first section was and we only saw one truck but the second section was very quite rough with quite a bit of washboard, but only about a dozen trucks so overall much better. This was also our first attempt at ripio in the wet, it does make a difference and everyone describes it as soapy, so very slippery.
We have stopped in this village having seen a sign for camping 7k ago and nothing since. Martin has asked several people and had responses giving directions and also negative no not round here, the last chap sorts us out and we find this field with two motor caravans and a football post at the far end. The access is down a very steep road. Down we go and a German couple introduce themselves and say the facilities leave a bit to be desired and no, no one seems to be in charge. We do a survey and find a wooden hut which used to be the showers and loos, I said to Martin, ‘there is a shower here’, he excitedly said ‘oh any hot water?’, and then looked at the remnants of the facilities.
We are pitched and have cooked ourselves a meal and will be on our way in the morning.
Our bikes are looking very second hand now having done ripio in the rain, they are filthy.