We start by going to go back to the cafe we were at last night and have breakfast and then hit the road. The plan today is to visit one of the lakes and then get a few miles under our belt.
The lake we visit is enormous and we now seem to be struggling with maps. I am still using the Argentinean mapiar maps but the detail in Chile is not as good as we have been used to, Martin however decided to put the Peru maps on in preparation and in doing so deleted all the other maps, not intentially, the system did it automatically, so he is looking at a blank screen with a purple line (the route) on it.
The ripio links we had wanted to go round do not seem to link up so in the end we cut and run retracing our steps back to Route 5. Once on that road we start to move as this is a motorway, now we thought it would be boring but this is not a motorway as we understand them, more like a dual carriageway with no rules. It is a toll road and we have to stop at a Peaje periodically, but there are cyclists cycling towards us on the hard shoulder, people walking along it, entrances to farms, breaks in the central reservation with lorrys towing trailers doing u-turns, you get the picture. Also there are real bends and not the simple curves that we have and the road surface is varied, not too bad mind you, and lots of road works but at least men are working this time.
We make good progress and stop to refuel the bikes and us and take half an hour off, there is Wifi so we make good use of it and sort Martins maps, an hour and three quarters later we get going again, doesn’t time fly when you’re having fun.
The miles fly by and we stop for fuel and decide our stop for the night, it is just 15 miles up the road. When we get there it is on the other carriageway as are the next three. Wecome off the motorway and into a little village where there is a motel and soon turn round and join the road again, a little seedy, thats the whole village.
I wont bore you with the detail but ages later we check into a hotel and pay more than we had wanted to but we are both exhausted and fed up of riding around. It has secure parking underground and a swimming pool and we can have dinner here.
Only 200k to Santiago so we should get there reasonably early and get sorted out, I can then Skype Charles as it is his birthday, fantastic.
Thursday, 6 January 2011
4th January Esqual – La Union (Chile) 363 miles
Well we both got up nice and early and headed of towards Baralochi after first stopping to fill up, that was the plan but no gas. We have more than enough to get to the next stop so off we go.
Early on in the ride we both noticed something different, no wind, don’t worry it came back but it was strange to experience that again after all we miles we have done battling with it.
We fill up near El Bolson and then get to Barilochi. We were told this is a trendy town by some of the other travellers we have met. Certainly the way we went into you would not think so but as we progressed into the centre the whole aspect changed. We found a compter shop where Martin may well have been able to sort his netbook had it not been siesta time. Martin did however establish that they had a good open wireless internet connection, so there we were sitting on a mini wall outside the shop, Martin sorting email on his phone and me netbook in hand skypeing Jo and then the boys. Whilst we were there we also managed to book the bikes in for a service in Santiago, so we now have a target, we must be there by 8am Friday.
Moving on we are now winding our way toward the Chilean border, I sa y winding because we are making our way around lakes and mountains, the road is good and interesting. During our wind through the hills we notice that we are at about 1250 metres above sea level, however looking around you would think we are on the valley floor with the mountains rising around us.
Having made the border we go through the same routine we have done several times now and move into another park, this is between the border crossings and in fact encompasses them. We have now checked out of Argentina and have 18k to do before we reach the Chilean checkpoint. The road winds onward and upwards through the mountains and is fantastic, the temperature drops 10 degrees by the time we reach the top and it is now raining and quite thick for (cloud). We descend down to the checkpoint and all is routine apart from them confiscating our dinner, sausages, there are restrictions on taking food across the borders, particularly fruit, but that now seems to include sausages.
The run down into Chile and the town of Ororno is uncannily like travelling through English countryside. Everything is green, there are trees, lawns are mown, there are grass verges, it is amazing the difference between two sides of a mountain, all down to climate no doubt.
Chile does feel quite different up here to Argentina, these comments are made whilst riding along the road, so very much first impressions, seems a bit more organised and structured. How I can come up with that riding along, goodness only knows but it is just a feeling I have.
It is now about 8pm and we top up with gas and debate where to stay, we can go on about 80 or so miles, where it would seem that the nearest campsite resides, but that will make us very late, 10ish by the time we get pitched and we need to eat. There are a couple of towns nearer, about 20 miles. Nothing in the first other than an empty and disused campsite, so lets try the other town. We don’t want to go on the toll motorway for 100 yards and pay again, yes they have a motorway her. So, Martin takes us on a wild goose chase up a ripio route as we haven’t done much of that today, unfortunately it starts going in the opposite direction with no sign of change, all the way back then.
We eventually reach the next town and no signs of campsites, hostels, hotels or restaurants for that matter. We back track yet again and it is now dark, cabanas the sign says so we investigate, a double bed , bathroom etc, so we take it, Martin will sleep on the floor, he offered. We ask if there is anywhere where we can get something to eat, now normally I can make out some of the Spanish language but this lady speeks so fast I have na idea what she is saying. With a bit of pointing and a question and answer session we just about make out where she is talking about and go to investigate.
Yhe eatery looks closed, lights are of but there is someone inside. Can we get something to eat is responded by a sandwich and a coffee, OK better than nothing, Then on goes the griggle and some meat is cooked, we ask if we can have an egg with it, no probs. Well when it arrived it was a large bap with meat cheese and 2 eggs, quality, because we were starving. Good banter with the staff and we will probably go there for breakfast.
On our return there are now 2 ladies, one who speaks a few words of English. They now have a different cabana for us, one with 2 beds but it is extra, but not a lot so we accept and again have quite a laugh trying to chat using multiple languages.
Early on in the ride we both noticed something different, no wind, don’t worry it came back but it was strange to experience that again after all we miles we have done battling with it.
We fill up near El Bolson and then get to Barilochi. We were told this is a trendy town by some of the other travellers we have met. Certainly the way we went into you would not think so but as we progressed into the centre the whole aspect changed. We found a compter shop where Martin may well have been able to sort his netbook had it not been siesta time. Martin did however establish that they had a good open wireless internet connection, so there we were sitting on a mini wall outside the shop, Martin sorting email on his phone and me netbook in hand skypeing Jo and then the boys. Whilst we were there we also managed to book the bikes in for a service in Santiago, so we now have a target, we must be there by 8am Friday.
Moving on we are now winding our way toward the Chilean border, I sa y winding because we are making our way around lakes and mountains, the road is good and interesting. During our wind through the hills we notice that we are at about 1250 metres above sea level, however looking around you would think we are on the valley floor with the mountains rising around us.
Having made the border we go through the same routine we have done several times now and move into another park, this is between the border crossings and in fact encompasses them. We have now checked out of Argentina and have 18k to do before we reach the Chilean checkpoint. The road winds onward and upwards through the mountains and is fantastic, the temperature drops 10 degrees by the time we reach the top and it is now raining and quite thick for (cloud). We descend down to the checkpoint and all is routine apart from them confiscating our dinner, sausages, there are restrictions on taking food across the borders, particularly fruit, but that now seems to include sausages.
The run down into Chile and the town of Ororno is uncannily like travelling through English countryside. Everything is green, there are trees, lawns are mown, there are grass verges, it is amazing the difference between two sides of a mountain, all down to climate no doubt.
Chile does feel quite different up here to Argentina, these comments are made whilst riding along the road, so very much first impressions, seems a bit more organised and structured. How I can come up with that riding along, goodness only knows but it is just a feeling I have.
It is now about 8pm and we top up with gas and debate where to stay, we can go on about 80 or so miles, where it would seem that the nearest campsite resides, but that will make us very late, 10ish by the time we get pitched and we need to eat. There are a couple of towns nearer, about 20 miles. Nothing in the first other than an empty and disused campsite, so lets try the other town. We don’t want to go on the toll motorway for 100 yards and pay again, yes they have a motorway her. So, Martin takes us on a wild goose chase up a ripio route as we haven’t done much of that today, unfortunately it starts going in the opposite direction with no sign of change, all the way back then.
We eventually reach the next town and no signs of campsites, hostels, hotels or restaurants for that matter. We back track yet again and it is now dark, cabanas the sign says so we investigate, a double bed , bathroom etc, so we take it, Martin will sleep on the floor, he offered. We ask if there is anywhere where we can get something to eat, now normally I can make out some of the Spanish language but this lady speeks so fast I have na idea what she is saying. With a bit of pointing and a question and answer session we just about make out where she is talking about and go to investigate.
Yhe eatery looks closed, lights are of but there is someone inside. Can we get something to eat is responded by a sandwich and a coffee, OK better than nothing, Then on goes the griggle and some meat is cooked, we ask if we can have an egg with it, no probs. Well when it arrived it was a large bap with meat cheese and 2 eggs, quality, because we were starving. Good banter with the staff and we will probably go there for breakfast.
On our return there are now 2 ladies, one who speaks a few words of English. They now have a different cabana for us, one with 2 beds but it is extra, but not a lot so we accept and again have quite a laugh trying to chat using multiple languages.
3rd January Perito Moreno – Esqual 318 miles, thats 4335 so far
We popped out for a drink and to find internet last night as we needed to decide what our next plan is. We have looked at a lot of sights in the area and could easily spend 1 or even 2 years doing this trip, but we do not have that long so we checked out how we are doing on our base plan and decide the priorities. We do want to try to see a Dakar stage and to meet up with Simon Pavey, a competitor we know and try to get into the bivouac. This means we need to get moving North stat, OK that’s a plan.
Packed up this morning and Raul meticulously cleaned everywhere after we had showered etc, even the Ladies shower which was not used, what a character.
We are now heading north to get a few miles covered. We start on ripio which I found hugely difficult again, it was a mixture of everything including sand. After 15 miles it would seem we didn’t need to do that as a new road is now in place which probably accounts for the poor state of the ripio. So a mixture of new road and ripio and we make reasonable progress. On one of our short stops on the ripio to allow the vibrations in your arms, and everything else to subside, we stopped close to a family who were setting up a picnic, but in grand style and they invited us to join them. We thanked them but declined as it looked like being a long affair, but how kind of them to ask.
A top up of gas and a quick sandwich in a gas station and we are away now on pavement the whole way, hooray. However Martin found an old ripio road and boldly charged onward, I was sure we didn’t need to do this and we convened a meeting and took to the pavement, thank goodness that ripio was 110 miles long.
We are ahead of target for the day so top up with gas and move on to the next town as it is only 110 miles further on.
Found a nice campsite straight away, have cooked a meal and just decided the plan for the next 2 days. Off to Barilochi tomorrow and then across the border to Chile to visit their Lake District, could be a big mileage day if all goes to plan and then on to Santiago after that.
Packed up this morning and Raul meticulously cleaned everywhere after we had showered etc, even the Ladies shower which was not used, what a character.
We are now heading north to get a few miles covered. We start on ripio which I found hugely difficult again, it was a mixture of everything including sand. After 15 miles it would seem we didn’t need to do that as a new road is now in place which probably accounts for the poor state of the ripio. So a mixture of new road and ripio and we make reasonable progress. On one of our short stops on the ripio to allow the vibrations in your arms, and everything else to subside, we stopped close to a family who were setting up a picnic, but in grand style and they invited us to join them. We thanked them but declined as it looked like being a long affair, but how kind of them to ask.
A top up of gas and a quick sandwich in a gas station and we are away now on pavement the whole way, hooray. However Martin found an old ripio road and boldly charged onward, I was sure we didn’t need to do this and we convened a meeting and took to the pavement, thank goodness that ripio was 110 miles long.
We are ahead of target for the day so top up with gas and move on to the next town as it is only 110 miles further on.
Found a nice campsite straight away, have cooked a meal and just decided the plan for the next 2 days. Off to Barilochi tomorrow and then across the border to Chile to visit their Lake District, could be a big mileage day if all goes to plan and then on to Santiago after that.
Sunday, 2 January 2011
2nd January Estancia La Angostura – Perito Moreno 186 miles
We topped up with 5l of gas each and left the hospitality of the Estancia straight into ripio which was horrendous for me. Martin now seems to settle in quicker but first thing in the morning ripio is awful. We managed OK with no issues or accidents, a few dramatic recoveries it has to be said. We are noe going to be on this stuff for some time now so I guess we need to get used to it and get on with it.
This section, both yesterday and today are in the midst of being updated and in a few years it will probably all be tarmac or pavement as we refer to it here. Martin and I have been trying to work out how, when, with what and who builds these roads. We had similar issues yesterday, but today we were diverted to the side of the original road as they were putting in drainage gullys and we then came to an almost finished section but they were waiting for the drainage gullys to go in. Also we came to a section that was not open but had the base coat of tarmac on it so we trucked on downthat section, now in the UK you would not be able to do that because of all the plant that would be parked on it, we have not seen any plat. Today there was a compound with some gravel about 4 big trucks and a couple of conveyers, apart from 1 digger yesterday that has been it. The other thing is that you can do 200 miles on ripio and then a 30 miles section of fantastic road unveils itself and then abruptly back onto ripio, such is life.
We did our good turn for the day today for some locals who were stranded in an old and very rusty pick up truck. They were parked on the side of the road with a shredded rear tyre and I mean shredded. We stopped and they only spoke Spanish with a few words of English, just like us only in reverse. They had a spare which was punctured and flat, no tools other that a jack and a wheel brace and a look on their face thinking I am sure that 2 motorbikers will not be able to help. This was now about 13.20 and they had been there since11.00.
They showed us a split in the tyre which we not have been able to fix but it transpired that this had a tube in it. We dug out our tools not sure if they were up to removing a truck tyre but we would try to assist. Well we managed to get the tyre off and found a puncture in the tube, martin stuck a patch on that and I instructed the guys to check the inside of the tyre. All was well other than this split which may have pinched the tube, gaffer tape may solve that, we hope. We managed to get the whole thing back together and put some air in it and changed it for the shredded wheel. All seems OK and they are very pleased and most grateful offering us water and a beer that is running around in the back of their truck, we thatnk them but decline and they are on their way. We then have to repack our bikes and the whole job took about 40 minutes and by the time we are packed and away it has cost us about an hour. A good experience, particularily for them but also for us as we now know our kit will work.
Still hunting down the gas station we finally arrive and they will serve us gas in 20 minutes, OK we will have a coffee and a sandwich. Fed watered and gassed up we leave with a new destination in mind, we had 139 miles left to do on ripio and it is now 16.20, so we will go to Perto Moreno (the town) and decide this evening whether we are going to look at some more local sites or should we run North and try to catch up ou schedule.
It was a good move because 30 miles on the road turns to pavement, my bike was grateful as I think it thought it was going to be shaken to pieces, I was grateful also. The road surface was fantastic and the road weaved around the mountains, a fantastic ride all the way to the town.
Having arrived we went to a campsite which was, in Martins words ‘a bit squalid’, we look at 2 more one deserted and the other taking the p*ss as they wanted to charge us 3 times as much for the bikes as they wanted from us, then the showers were extra, etc. OK, let’s look at a hostel, that’s not there, so we work around some hotels, way too dear. Back to do a final check on the deserted campsite and there is a chap there now, it seems fine, good pitch and the showers seem clean enough.
We decide to stay and Raul the main man here shows us a camp stove run off mains gas in the garden, supermarket is next door so a meal is concocted, cooked and eaten. Raul is a s mad as a box of frogs but what a fantastic character he is very helpful and hugely entertaining.
We now need to think our next steps over as we cannot visit everything and we want to get up country to see the Dakar so we may just head north. I’ll let you know what we decide to do tomoorow.
This section, both yesterday and today are in the midst of being updated and in a few years it will probably all be tarmac or pavement as we refer to it here. Martin and I have been trying to work out how, when, with what and who builds these roads. We had similar issues yesterday, but today we were diverted to the side of the original road as they were putting in drainage gullys and we then came to an almost finished section but they were waiting for the drainage gullys to go in. Also we came to a section that was not open but had the base coat of tarmac on it so we trucked on downthat section, now in the UK you would not be able to do that because of all the plant that would be parked on it, we have not seen any plat. Today there was a compound with some gravel about 4 big trucks and a couple of conveyers, apart from 1 digger yesterday that has been it. The other thing is that you can do 200 miles on ripio and then a 30 miles section of fantastic road unveils itself and then abruptly back onto ripio, such is life.
We did our good turn for the day today for some locals who were stranded in an old and very rusty pick up truck. They were parked on the side of the road with a shredded rear tyre and I mean shredded. We stopped and they only spoke Spanish with a few words of English, just like us only in reverse. They had a spare which was punctured and flat, no tools other that a jack and a wheel brace and a look on their face thinking I am sure that 2 motorbikers will not be able to help. This was now about 13.20 and they had been there since11.00.
They showed us a split in the tyre which we not have been able to fix but it transpired that this had a tube in it. We dug out our tools not sure if they were up to removing a truck tyre but we would try to assist. Well we managed to get the tyre off and found a puncture in the tube, martin stuck a patch on that and I instructed the guys to check the inside of the tyre. All was well other than this split which may have pinched the tube, gaffer tape may solve that, we hope. We managed to get the whole thing back together and put some air in it and changed it for the shredded wheel. All seems OK and they are very pleased and most grateful offering us water and a beer that is running around in the back of their truck, we thatnk them but decline and they are on their way. We then have to repack our bikes and the whole job took about 40 minutes and by the time we are packed and away it has cost us about an hour. A good experience, particularily for them but also for us as we now know our kit will work.
Still hunting down the gas station we finally arrive and they will serve us gas in 20 minutes, OK we will have a coffee and a sandwich. Fed watered and gassed up we leave with a new destination in mind, we had 139 miles left to do on ripio and it is now 16.20, so we will go to Perto Moreno (the town) and decide this evening whether we are going to look at some more local sites or should we run North and try to catch up ou schedule.
It was a good move because 30 miles on the road turns to pavement, my bike was grateful as I think it thought it was going to be shaken to pieces, I was grateful also. The road surface was fantastic and the road weaved around the mountains, a fantastic ride all the way to the town.
Having arrived we went to a campsite which was, in Martins words ‘a bit squalid’, we look at 2 more one deserted and the other taking the p*ss as they wanted to charge us 3 times as much for the bikes as they wanted from us, then the showers were extra, etc. OK, let’s look at a hostel, that’s not there, so we work around some hotels, way too dear. Back to do a final check on the deserted campsite and there is a chap there now, it seems fine, good pitch and the showers seem clean enough.
We decide to stay and Raul the main man here shows us a camp stove run off mains gas in the garden, supermarket is next door so a meal is concocted, cooked and eaten. Raul is a s mad as a box of frogs but what a fantastic character he is very helpful and hugely entertaining.
We now need to think our next steps over as we cannot visit everything and we want to get up country to see the Dakar so we may just head north. I’ll let you know what we decide to do tomoorow.
1sy January El Calefate – Estancia La Angostura (Route 40) 189 miles
Well my apologies, confusion on my part between chalten and chaiten, one is a glacier and the other a volcana, not a lot of difference apart from temperature. I said that today we would be going to El Chalten as I had confused that with El Chaiten, which is much further up the country.
At El Chalten there is another glacier and Mount Fitzroy and although I am sure it will be absolutely beautiful we decide to bypass it as we really need to start moving up country. It would be great to spend weeks discovering these areas but we have to budget our time as well.
So complete change of plan, move on up to a place Alexandro recommended. We start the day late, as usual, as I need to update the blogs and write yesterdays and also upload that.
We have fabulous roads and speed along through some interesting mountain roads with curves. We stop to take photos of Mount Fitzroy which we can now see clearly in the distance. The road is great for about 90 miles and we are travelling quite quickly when suddenly the road ends and we are on ripio, it is almost emergency stop time, wow.
We do a fuel check and decide to top up, we still have 250 miles left according to the computer, but.....
There is a gas station in Tres Lagos in 0.2 miles, well 1.5 miles in and we haven’t found it. We have double what we need so lets just crack on. This is Route 40 in classic style, relly difficult with large stones and no distinct tracks. It doesn’t improve much because there are diversions as they are, allegedly, we saw no sign of it, building a new road. We are now running on what can best be described as a tank testing ground, massive undulations, holes, dips, sand, you name it we rode over it. We came across a sign stating that the road construction started on 1st July 2009, well we did not see any workers adn over 60 miles we saw on e digger.
The temperature has risen quite considerably, it is now 33 degrees, well as it is a challenging road we stop a couple of times for a breather. One time I decide it is chocolate time, a nice big bar we bought the day before yesterday, I hand Martin half of it and mop up the other half out of my pannier. Where it had melted literally half of it had run into the bottom of the pannier, so Martin drank some of what was left whilst I cleared up and then I drank what was left.
After about 85 miles hawkeye Martin spots a sign for Estancia La Angostura. We are now on a farm track for a few miles and finally come to a gate with a group of buildings beyond. We are greated by a wonderful smiling gent who tells us to park our bikes and then shows us around, somewhere to camp, toilets and showers, it looks great. There are other bikers there, 2 from Austria and 2 from Italy, also a couple from Holland in a car and a Spanish couple, I do know where they are from.
First good news is they have beers, soon followed by, they are cooking dinner, we deserve a decent meal after our ride.
Having pitched our tents dinner is at 8 and what a fantastic meal with great company. The final good news is that they have fuel here so hopefully we will be starting the day with full tanks.
At El Chalten there is another glacier and Mount Fitzroy and although I am sure it will be absolutely beautiful we decide to bypass it as we really need to start moving up country. It would be great to spend weeks discovering these areas but we have to budget our time as well.
So complete change of plan, move on up to a place Alexandro recommended. We start the day late, as usual, as I need to update the blogs and write yesterdays and also upload that.
We have fabulous roads and speed along through some interesting mountain roads with curves. We stop to take photos of Mount Fitzroy which we can now see clearly in the distance. The road is great for about 90 miles and we are travelling quite quickly when suddenly the road ends and we are on ripio, it is almost emergency stop time, wow.
We do a fuel check and decide to top up, we still have 250 miles left according to the computer, but.....
There is a gas station in Tres Lagos in 0.2 miles, well 1.5 miles in and we haven’t found it. We have double what we need so lets just crack on. This is Route 40 in classic style, relly difficult with large stones and no distinct tracks. It doesn’t improve much because there are diversions as they are, allegedly, we saw no sign of it, building a new road. We are now running on what can best be described as a tank testing ground, massive undulations, holes, dips, sand, you name it we rode over it. We came across a sign stating that the road construction started on 1st July 2009, well we did not see any workers adn over 60 miles we saw on e digger.
The temperature has risen quite considerably, it is now 33 degrees, well as it is a challenging road we stop a couple of times for a breather. One time I decide it is chocolate time, a nice big bar we bought the day before yesterday, I hand Martin half of it and mop up the other half out of my pannier. Where it had melted literally half of it had run into the bottom of the pannier, so Martin drank some of what was left whilst I cleared up and then I drank what was left.
After about 85 miles hawkeye Martin spots a sign for Estancia La Angostura. We are now on a farm track for a few miles and finally come to a gate with a group of buildings beyond. We are greated by a wonderful smiling gent who tells us to park our bikes and then shows us around, somewhere to camp, toilets and showers, it looks great. There are other bikers there, 2 from Austria and 2 from Italy, also a couple from Holland in a car and a Spanish couple, I do know where they are from.
First good news is they have beers, soon followed by, they are cooking dinner, we deserve a decent meal after our ride.
Having pitched our tents dinner is at 8 and what a fantastic meal with great company. The final good news is that they have fuel here so hopefully we will be starting the day with full tanks.
2nd January El Calefate – Estancia La Angostura (Route 40) 189 miles
Well my apologies, confusion on my part between chalten and chaiten, one is a glacier and the other a volcana, not a lot of difference apart from temperature. I said that today we would be going to El Chalten as I had confused that with El Chaiten, which is much further up the country.
At El Chalten there is another glacier and Mount Fitzroy and although I am sure it will be absolutely beautiful we decide to bypass it as we really need to start moving up country. It would be great to spend weeks discovering these areas but we have to budget our time as well.
So complete change of plan, move on up to a place Alexandro recommended. We start the day late, as usual, as I need to update the blogs and write yesterdays and also upload that.
We have fabulous roads and speed along through some interesting mountain roads with curves. We stop to take photos of Mount Fitzroy which we can now see clearly in the distance. The road is great for about 90 miles and we are travelling quite quickly when suddenly the road ends and we are on ripio, it is almost emergency stop time, wow.
We do a fuel check and decide to top up, we still have 250 miles left according to the computer, but.....
There is a gas station in Tres Lagos in 0.2 miles, well 1.5 miles in and we haven’t found it. We have double what we need so lets just crack on. This is Route 40 in classic style, relly difficult with large stones and no distinct tracks. It doesn’t improve much because there are diversions as they are, allegedly, we saw no sign of it, building a new road. We are now running on what can best be described as a tank testing ground, massive undulations, holes, dips, sand, you name it we rode over it. We came across a sign stating that the road construction started on 1st July 2009, well we did not see any workers adn over 60 miles we saw on e digger.
The temperature has risen quite considerably, it is now 33 degrees, well as it is a challenging road we stop a couple of times for a breather. One time I decide it is chocolate time, a nice big bar we bought the day before yesterday, I hand Martin half of it and mop up the other half out of my pannier. Where it had melted literally half of it had run into the bottom of the pannier, so Martin drank some of what was left whilst I cleared up and then I drank what was left.
After about 85 miles hawkeye Martin spots a sign for Estancia La Angostura. We are now on a farm track for a few miles and finally come to a gate with a group of buildings beyond. We are greated by a wonderful smiling gent who tells us to park our bikes and then shows us around, somewhere to camp, toilets and showers, it looks great. There are other bikers there, 2 from Austria and 2 from Italy, also a couple from Holland in a car and a Spanish couple, I do know where they are from.
First good news is they have beers, soon followed by, they are cooking dinner, we deserve a decent meal after our ride.
Having pitched our tents dinner is at 8 and what a fantastic meal with great company. The final good news is that they have fuel here so hopefully we will be starting the day with full tanks.
At El Chalten there is another glacier and Mount Fitzroy and although I am sure it will be absolutely beautiful we decide to bypass it as we really need to start moving up country. It would be great to spend weeks discovering these areas but we have to budget our time as well.
So complete change of plan, move on up to a place Alexandro recommended. We start the day late, as usual, as I need to update the blogs and write yesterdays and also upload that.
We have fabulous roads and speed along through some interesting mountain roads with curves. We stop to take photos of Mount Fitzroy which we can now see clearly in the distance. The road is great for about 90 miles and we are travelling quite quickly when suddenly the road ends and we are on ripio, it is almost emergency stop time, wow.
We do a fuel check and decide to top up, we still have 250 miles left according to the computer, but.....
There is a gas station in Tres Lagos in 0.2 miles, well 1.5 miles in and we haven’t found it. We have double what we need so lets just crack on. This is Route 40 in classic style, relly difficult with large stones and no distinct tracks. It doesn’t improve much because there are diversions as they are, allegedly, we saw no sign of it, building a new road. We are now running on what can best be described as a tank testing ground, massive undulations, holes, dips, sand, you name it we rode over it. We came across a sign stating that the road construction started on 1st July 2009, well we did not see any workers adn over 60 miles we saw on e digger.
The temperature has risen quite considerably, it is now 33 degrees, well as it is a challenging road we stop a couple of times for a breather. One time I decide it is chocolate time, a nice big bar we bought the day before yesterday, I hand Martin half of it and mop up the other half out of my pannier. Where it had melted literally half of it had run into the bottom of the pannier, so Martin drank some of what was left whilst I cleared up and then I drank what was left.
After about 85 miles hawkeye Martin spots a sign for Estancia La Angostura. We are now on a farm track for a few miles and finally come to a gate with a group of buildings beyond. We are greated by a wonderful smiling gent who tells us to park our bikes and then shows us around, somewhere to camp, toilets and showers, it looks great. There are other bikers there, 2 from Austria and 2 from Italy, also a couple from Holland in a car and a Spanish couple, I do know where they are from.
First good news is they have beers, soon followed by, they are cooking dinner, we deserve a decent meal after our ride.
Having pitched our tents dinner is at 8 and what a fantastic meal with great company. The final good news is that they have fuel here so hopefully we will be starting the day with full tanks.
El Calefate – Estancia La Angostura (Route 40) 189 miles
Well my apologies, confusion on my part between chalten and chaiten, one is a glacier and the other a volcana, not a lot of difference apart from temperature. I said that today we would be going to El Chalten as I had confused that with El Chaiten, which is much further up the country.
At El Chalten there is another glacier and Mount Fitzroy and although I am sure it will be absolutely beautiful we decide to bypass it as we really need to start moving up country. It would be great to spend weeks discovering these areas but we have to budget our time as well.
So complete change of plan, move on up to a place Alexandro recommended. We start the day late, as usual, as I need to update the blogs and write yesterdays and also upload that.
We have fabulous roads and speed along through some interesting mountain roads with curves. We stop to take photos of Mount Fitzroy which we can now see clearly in the distance. The road is great for about 90 miles and we are travelling quite quickly when suddenly the road ends and we are on ripio, it is almost emergency stop time, wow.
We do a fuel check and decide to top up, we still have 250 miles left according to the computer, but.....
There is a gas station in Tres Lagos in 0.2 miles, well 1.5 miles in and we haven’t found it. We have double what we need so lets just crack on. This is Route 40 in classic style, relly difficult with large stones and no distinct tracks. It doesn’t improve much because there are diversions as they are, allegedly, we saw no sign of it, building a new road. We are now running on what can best be described as a tank testing ground, massive undulations, holes, dips, sand, you name it we rode over it. We came across a sign stating that the road construction started on 1st July 2009, well we did not see any workers adn over 60 miles we saw on e digger.
The temperature has risen quite considerably, it is now 33 degrees, well as it is a challenging road we stop a couple of times for a breather. One time I decide it is chocolate time, a nice big bar we bought the day before yesterday, I hand Martin half of it and mop up the other half out of my pannier. Where it had melted literally half of it had run into the bottom of the pannier, so Martin drank some of what was left whilst I cleared up and then I drank what was left.
After about 85 miles hawkeye Martin spots a sign for Estancia La Angostura. We are now on a farm track for a few miles and finally come to a gate with a group of buildings beyond. We are greated by a wonderful smiling gent who tells us to park our bikes and then shows us around, somewhere to camp, toilets and showers, it looks great. There are other bikers there, 2 from Austria and 2 from Italy, also a couple from Holland in a car and a Spanish couple, I do know where they are from.
First good news is they have beers, soon followed by, they are cooking dinner, we deserve a decent meal after our ride.
Having pitched our tents dinner is at 8 and what a fantastic meal with great company. The final good news is that they have fuel here so hopefully we will be starting the day with full tanks.
At El Chalten there is another glacier and Mount Fitzroy and although I am sure it will be absolutely beautiful we decide to bypass it as we really need to start moving up country. It would be great to spend weeks discovering these areas but we have to budget our time as well.
So complete change of plan, move on up to a place Alexandro recommended. We start the day late, as usual, as I need to update the blogs and write yesterdays and also upload that.
We have fabulous roads and speed along through some interesting mountain roads with curves. We stop to take photos of Mount Fitzroy which we can now see clearly in the distance. The road is great for about 90 miles and we are travelling quite quickly when suddenly the road ends and we are on ripio, it is almost emergency stop time, wow.
We do a fuel check and decide to top up, we still have 250 miles left according to the computer, but.....
There is a gas station in Tres Lagos in 0.2 miles, well 1.5 miles in and we haven’t found it. We have double what we need so lets just crack on. This is Route 40 in classic style, relly difficult with large stones and no distinct tracks. It doesn’t improve much because there are diversions as they are, allegedly, we saw no sign of it, building a new road. We are now running on what can best be described as a tank testing ground, massive undulations, holes, dips, sand, you name it we rode over it. We came across a sign stating that the road construction started on 1st July 2009, well we did not see any workers adn over 60 miles we saw on e digger.
The temperature has risen quite considerably, it is now 33 degrees, well as it is a challenging road we stop a couple of times for a breather. One time I decide it is chocolate time, a nice big bar we bought the day before yesterday, I hand Martin half of it and mop up the other half out of my pannier. Where it had melted literally half of it had run into the bottom of the pannier, so Martin drank some of what was left whilst I cleared up and then I drank what was left.
After about 85 miles hawkeye Martin spots a sign for Estancia La Angostura. We are now on a farm track for a few miles and finally come to a gate with a group of buildings beyond. We are greated by a wonderful smiling gent who tells us to park our bikes and then shows us around, somewhere to camp, toilets and showers, it looks great. There are other bikers there, 2 from Austria and 2 from Italy, also a couple from Holland in a car and a Spanish couple, I do know where they are from.
First good news is they have beers, soon followed by, they are cooking dinner, we deserve a decent meal after our ride.
Having pitched our tents dinner is at 8 and what a fantastic meal with great company. The final good news is that they have fuel here so hopefully we will be starting the day with full tanks.
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