It did eventually stop raining last night and then started again with vengeance and went on most of the night and then eased this morning.
So we left in drizzle and for some reason headed South, I guess because of the mountains, and eventually curved round to head North after about 15 miles. The road today was very slow as we are once again winding through the mountains and also because the road was very busy with lorries and overtaking can be a little challenging. The other issue we have to contend with is that the lorries coming towards us use the whole road when descending to give them a good swing into the bends, so it is not unusual to go round a hairpin and find a lorry on your side of the road and you just have to squeeze up the side of them.
We eventually got to Medellin but the 80 odd miles took us 3 1/2 hours and we couldn’t have gone a lot quicker.
We went straight to the BMW dealer to pick up my tyres and see if we could get a service. All booked in no problem and they will be ready tomorrow at 3, not bad foa a walk in booking.
We got some advice on where to go and what to see whilst we are here and then got a cab to our recommended hotel, and here we are.
Thursday, 24 February 2011
23rd February Armenia –Sunia 120 miles
Having had a pre breakfast swim and got the blog up to date we had a pate start today and it is with regret that we have to leave this beautiful hotel. We settled the bill and for bed breakfast, evening meal for 2 days for both of us, eighty pounds, and that included beers and a couple of bottles of wine.
It is warm when we leave but we get a couple of spots of rain that thankfully comes to nothing. Asw we progress the sky is black ahead of us and I am sure we will run into rain soon, but no it doesn’t come and I was thinking that if we manage to dodge this all day it will be like the great escape.
Needless to say we didn’t, the sky was like night and we had quote a few spots and I suggested stopping to put our waterproofs on, Martin agreed and pulled up in front of some warehouse doors which had a small roll overhang over the doors. Well the heavens opened and 2 locals joined us for shelter, it absolutely hammered dawn, at one point we were pressed hard against the doors to attempt to keep out of the driving rain. After about half an hour it eased to torrential rain and we were able to get our togs on and then headed of again.
We soon ran out of the rain, thankfully, and started climbing up the mountain having a great run but progress was slow as it was a twisty road with tiny straights which made overtaking tricky. In places there were signs ‘zona inestable’, and there may have been some gravel where the road had washed away but we then came to an area where most of the road had subsided about 8 to 10 feet, goodness knows why, there were a couple of these. However when we came to the section with a drop on one side there were places where you would come round a corner and your half of the road had gone down the mountain, but in fairness at all these points there was a massive sign warning you and you could see the sign warning the traffic in the opposite direction, so it wasn’t difficult to be cautious in these areas.
As we got to the other side of the mountain, the rain came down, and it poured. With added issue of wet roads, some parts were like rivers, it was obvious we were not going to make Medallin before dark so once again plan B. We came to a town called Sunia, never has there been a worse misnomer because Sun the furthest thing from it. The only hotel we could find was the Grande, it is the total opposite to last night and is a combination of being built and falling down, but it seems clean and dry and the bikes are under cover, so not all bad.
We will make for Medallin tomorrow, it is probably 70 – 100 miles, amazing really when you concider that it was only 160 miles when we left and we have done 120, but that is what we are used to now.
It is warm when we leave but we get a couple of spots of rain that thankfully comes to nothing. Asw we progress the sky is black ahead of us and I am sure we will run into rain soon, but no it doesn’t come and I was thinking that if we manage to dodge this all day it will be like the great escape.
Needless to say we didn’t, the sky was like night and we had quote a few spots and I suggested stopping to put our waterproofs on, Martin agreed and pulled up in front of some warehouse doors which had a small roll overhang over the doors. Well the heavens opened and 2 locals joined us for shelter, it absolutely hammered dawn, at one point we were pressed hard against the doors to attempt to keep out of the driving rain. After about half an hour it eased to torrential rain and we were able to get our togs on and then headed of again.
We soon ran out of the rain, thankfully, and started climbing up the mountain having a great run but progress was slow as it was a twisty road with tiny straights which made overtaking tricky. In places there were signs ‘zona inestable’, and there may have been some gravel where the road had washed away but we then came to an area where most of the road had subsided about 8 to 10 feet, goodness knows why, there were a couple of these. However when we came to the section with a drop on one side there were places where you would come round a corner and your half of the road had gone down the mountain, but in fairness at all these points there was a massive sign warning you and you could see the sign warning the traffic in the opposite direction, so it wasn’t difficult to be cautious in these areas.
As we got to the other side of the mountain, the rain came down, and it poured. With added issue of wet roads, some parts were like rivers, it was obvious we were not going to make Medallin before dark so once again plan B. We came to a town called Sunia, never has there been a worse misnomer because Sun the furthest thing from it. The only hotel we could find was the Grande, it is the total opposite to last night and is a combination of being built and falling down, but it seems clean and dry and the bikes are under cover, so not all bad.
We will make for Medallin tomorrow, it is probably 70 – 100 miles, amazing really when you concider that it was only 160 miles when we left and we have done 120, but that is what we are used to now.
Wednesday, 23 February 2011
22nd February Armenia 46 miles
Our plans to visit a coffee plantation were nearly scuppered when we found the local park was closed on a Tuesday. But we think having found another plantation to go to we were better off.
The original park sounds quite commercialised with lots of rides like Thorpe Park or Alton Towers and we didn’t want that anyway, but the plantation we went to just do the coffee tour and that’s all.
We were quite fortunate in that the staff only spoke Spanish but there was a tour in progress which we joined with a Columbian lady married to and American guy and she translated everything for us. We then joined another group to do the first part of the tour and 3 Argentinian guys were on that who also spoke English so it all worked out fine in the end.
We thought it would take an hour or two, but we were there for 5 hours. We started by dressing up in traditional costume and having the purpose and reason for the various clothing and equipment, we even had to dance. We then walked around the estate looking at the plants and where and how they grow and then back to pick some beans. Then to take the husks off, sort them, dry them and wash them for more sorting, we looked at how they did this 100 years ago and also how they do it now.
This is how they then sell the coffee these days and specialist roasters make the various types that we buy, but they show us how the coffee is roasted and then made some fresh coffee which we tried, a very good day.
Back to the hotel and into the pool, jacqusi and Turkish bath whilst Andreas brings us drinks to the poolside, it’s a hard life here but we must leave and head a bit further North tomorrow.
The original park sounds quite commercialised with lots of rides like Thorpe Park or Alton Towers and we didn’t want that anyway, but the plantation we went to just do the coffee tour and that’s all.
We were quite fortunate in that the staff only spoke Spanish but there was a tour in progress which we joined with a Columbian lady married to and American guy and she translated everything for us. We then joined another group to do the first part of the tour and 3 Argentinian guys were on that who also spoke English so it all worked out fine in the end.
We thought it would take an hour or two, but we were there for 5 hours. We started by dressing up in traditional costume and having the purpose and reason for the various clothing and equipment, we even had to dance. We then walked around the estate looking at the plants and where and how they grow and then back to pick some beans. Then to take the husks off, sort them, dry them and wash them for more sorting, we looked at how they did this 100 years ago and also how they do it now.
This is how they then sell the coffee these days and specialist roasters make the various types that we buy, but they show us how the coffee is roasted and then made some fresh coffee which we tried, a very good day.
Back to the hotel and into the pool, jacqusi and Turkish bath whilst Andreas brings us drinks to the poolside, it’s a hard life here but we must leave and head a bit further North tomorrow.
21st February Cali – Armenia 138 miles (we are now over 11000 total)
Today we have to get insurance for the bikes before we leave, Paco, the guy we met at the bike shop has given us the name of a chap who works in this office and will ring him to introduce us. A taxi to the office and we ask for Richard, Pacos friend and they ring him for us. When Martin speaks to him on the phone apparently he doesn’t work ther any more so we are now waiting for a Mr Francisco and are given a cup of coffee.
Suddenly Paco turns up and informs us that they don’t do the insurance here we need to go down the road, we informed him we are waiting for a Mr Fancisco and he said ‘thats me’, they call Francisco’s Paco here. So Richard has phoned him and he has come out to meet us and guide us through the process, how kind is that. A trip down the street and Paco odering what we need we are done in no time. Many thanks indeed, way beyond the call of duty. This is how kind and helpful we have found Columbians.
Back to the hotel and we pack up and head off towards Armenia which is a reasonably uneventful journey and we find a recommended hotel. On arriving at these gates we ring the bell and a short tims later a young man lets us in and we drive up the drive, and get booked in.
Upon further investigation this place is vast and the accommodation is in 2 buildings, another houses the dining room and a bar upstairs and then there is a pool with Turkish bath, hot tub, a few bits of gym kit, table tennis and other similar game tables, it is fantastic, but we are the only guests.
Dinner is laid on for us and we are given info on a coffee park where we can go tomorrow.
Suddenly Paco turns up and informs us that they don’t do the insurance here we need to go down the road, we informed him we are waiting for a Mr Fancisco and he said ‘thats me’, they call Francisco’s Paco here. So Richard has phoned him and he has come out to meet us and guide us through the process, how kind is that. A trip down the street and Paco odering what we need we are done in no time. Many thanks indeed, way beyond the call of duty. This is how kind and helpful we have found Columbians.
Back to the hotel and we pack up and head off towards Armenia which is a reasonably uneventful journey and we find a recommended hotel. On arriving at these gates we ring the bell and a short tims later a young man lets us in and we drive up the drive, and get booked in.
Upon further investigation this place is vast and the accommodation is in 2 buildings, another houses the dining room and a bar upstairs and then there is a pool with Turkish bath, hot tub, a few bits of gym kit, table tennis and other similar game tables, it is fantastic, but we are the only guests.
Dinner is laid on for us and we are given info on a coffee park where we can go tomorrow.
20th February Cali 10 miles
Bit of a chill out day today so after a lazy start we get the bikes and head off up a hill near us to view some crosses. In the distance we can see 3 crosses on the top of a hill/mountain totally surrounded by ariels.
We have several attempts at finding the road and eventually find a dirt road which climbs and winds its way up the mountain. On the way up I meet a bus coming down, couldn’t think why as it was a bus and not a coach/tour bus, on arrival at the top all became clear, there was a village there called three crosses. A bit further on and throught the village are these three large crosses and a lot of ariels for communication etc.
A slow run down taking in views of the city and put the bikes back into the compound and of to Chipi Chappi, a shopping mall.
This is a massive shopping mall with a train and all sorts of other rides and attractions for the kids, tons of bars and naturally lots of shops, which seem to be dominated by clothes and fashion shops. A hotel resides at the end designed in the form of a half circle right on the end of the mall.
Just outside the mall, on the way in there is a puppy market toaday. Lots of people have turned up with puppies and seem to be marketing them on the approach road to the mall, incredible.
After a wander round we have a couple of beers and they give out free popcorn with copius amounts of salt on to compliment your drink. Then over to the food hall where there is every type of food you can think of so we decide to eat here and it is actually very good.
Enough for one day!
We have several attempts at finding the road and eventually find a dirt road which climbs and winds its way up the mountain. On the way up I meet a bus coming down, couldn’t think why as it was a bus and not a coach/tour bus, on arrival at the top all became clear, there was a village there called three crosses. A bit further on and throught the village are these three large crosses and a lot of ariels for communication etc.
A slow run down taking in views of the city and put the bikes back into the compound and of to Chipi Chappi, a shopping mall.
This is a massive shopping mall with a train and all sorts of other rides and attractions for the kids, tons of bars and naturally lots of shops, which seem to be dominated by clothes and fashion shops. A hotel resides at the end designed in the form of a half circle right on the end of the mall.
Just outside the mall, on the way in there is a puppy market toaday. Lots of people have turned up with puppies and seem to be marketing them on the approach road to the mall, incredible.
After a wander round we have a couple of beers and they give out free popcorn with copius amounts of salt on to compliment your drink. Then over to the food hall where there is every type of food you can think of so we decide to eat here and it is actually very good.
Enough for one day!
Monday, 21 February 2011
Sunday, 20 February 2011
19th February Cali
We have decided to have a comple clean up so had our suits laundered, probably about time, sadly they are not a gleemy as we had hoped but at least all the dust and grime of the last two and a half months will be out of them.
Had a chat with Mike here at the hotel who runs motorcycle tours himself and we have consolidated our future route and the highlights to see. We now need to sort how and where we are shipping the bikes home Mike has given us a contact and we have emailed a couple we know, we need to get this sorted as this will decide our end point.
Back to the garage and the tyres have not arrived and as it is Sunday tomorrow it will bee sometime Monday at the earliest so we can get them fitted in Medellin instead and that will suit us fine, at least they are there and booked out to us. I asked Sory at the garage to recommend hotels for us in our various stop off points and she has typed out an A4 sheet with lots of information including details of where we can get the bikes serviced, many thanks.
We haven’t cleaned the bikes at all since we have been here other than a couple of half hearted attempts to clean the screen, but there is a place around the corner where they clean bikes and cars. Well one and a half hours later and a fiver each and the bikes are gleaming, how do they make any money? While we are here about 7 policemen arrive on bikes, usually one riding and another on the back with an automatic weapon, they are very interested in the bikes, personally and not professionally. We have another photoshoot one with a guy with his gun and Martin and I with our arms around his shoulders whilst his colleague too k the photo.
Last job is to get a phone sim card as we will be here a little while, no bother with that and we are all set up.
We are staying here tomorrow and will head off on Monday to a coffee plantation on our way to Medellin.
Had a chat with Mike here at the hotel who runs motorcycle tours himself and we have consolidated our future route and the highlights to see. We now need to sort how and where we are shipping the bikes home Mike has given us a contact and we have emailed a couple we know, we need to get this sorted as this will decide our end point.
Back to the garage and the tyres have not arrived and as it is Sunday tomorrow it will bee sometime Monday at the earliest so we can get them fitted in Medellin instead and that will suit us fine, at least they are there and booked out to us. I asked Sory at the garage to recommend hotels for us in our various stop off points and she has typed out an A4 sheet with lots of information including details of where we can get the bikes serviced, many thanks.
We haven’t cleaned the bikes at all since we have been here other than a couple of half hearted attempts to clean the screen, but there is a place around the corner where they clean bikes and cars. Well one and a half hours later and a fiver each and the bikes are gleaming, how do they make any money? While we are here about 7 policemen arrive on bikes, usually one riding and another on the back with an automatic weapon, they are very interested in the bikes, personally and not professionally. We have another photoshoot one with a guy with his gun and Martin and I with our arms around his shoulders whilst his colleague too k the photo.
Last job is to get a phone sim card as we will be here a little while, no bother with that and we are all set up.
We are staying here tomorrow and will head off on Monday to a coffee plantation on our way to Medellin.
18th February Papayan – Cali 87 miles
We had a wander around Papayan last night and it is very nice with mainly 16th century architecture and a beautiful cathedral, also all the people seem very helpful .
Having had some breakfast, well a lot of breakfast, I don’t quite know what went wrong but I ordered and was offered meat or eggs so I ordered one of each thinking I would get ‘an American breakfast’, scrambles eggs with a roll and Martin some bacon or sausage. Well the fruit, fruit juice and coffe went well but then I got eggs with salad, rice and chips and Martin got a large peice of meat with the same accessories, definitely no lunch today!
The journey was quite simple and uneventful but we were looking for the road blocks with the lorries but they never came, so we now realise it was the blockade coming out of Pasto that was being referred to.
Having arrived in Cali we want to get checked into our accommodation first and then we can search out some tyres and everything else afterwards. Cali is a big city, the third biggest in Columbia and we are going round in ever decreasing circles and regularily asking for directions. It is quite amazing that everyone we ask has no idea of where we are going, how do they find their way to work.
Finally, on a garage forecourt one chap seems to know the way but is talking quickly in Spanish and doing that flick of the hand, down there. At this point a guy comes up to me and speaks English and is excited to meet us, he has a few Lambretta scooters and I ask him if he will translate the instructions for us, better than that he says follow me, my bike is just here, and climbs back into the taxi he has made wait for him whilst he spoke to us. Having followed the taxi around the corner to his home he gets out his scooter and his wife appears with a camera, after a photo shoot we are off following across the city and it is miles, we had not gone far enough North. His name is Danny and he leads us past a scooter garage and toots and waves and took us straight to the door of our preferred hotel. We offered to buy him a drink but no, no it was a pleasure and if we want to go anywhere else whilst we are in town just call him and he will come over and guide us, what an absolute star.
We are booked into the hotel and Mike the proprietor takes us round the corner to a garage where we can get tyres. They have one set in stock which we get fitted to Martin’s as he is now on slicks and they order some for mine which will be in tomorrow or the next day. We also get some good advice here on a route to follow around Columbia and things to see and visit. Good advice is also given on what to look out for and how to stay safe, particularly in the cities, in fairness there are parts of London you wouldn’t go at night, so once again really nice people and extremely helpful and friendly.
Having had some breakfast, well a lot of breakfast, I don’t quite know what went wrong but I ordered and was offered meat or eggs so I ordered one of each thinking I would get ‘an American breakfast’, scrambles eggs with a roll and Martin some bacon or sausage. Well the fruit, fruit juice and coffe went well but then I got eggs with salad, rice and chips and Martin got a large peice of meat with the same accessories, definitely no lunch today!
The journey was quite simple and uneventful but we were looking for the road blocks with the lorries but they never came, so we now realise it was the blockade coming out of Pasto that was being referred to.
Having arrived in Cali we want to get checked into our accommodation first and then we can search out some tyres and everything else afterwards. Cali is a big city, the third biggest in Columbia and we are going round in ever decreasing circles and regularily asking for directions. It is quite amazing that everyone we ask has no idea of where we are going, how do they find their way to work.
Finally, on a garage forecourt one chap seems to know the way but is talking quickly in Spanish and doing that flick of the hand, down there. At this point a guy comes up to me and speaks English and is excited to meet us, he has a few Lambretta scooters and I ask him if he will translate the instructions for us, better than that he says follow me, my bike is just here, and climbs back into the taxi he has made wait for him whilst he spoke to us. Having followed the taxi around the corner to his home he gets out his scooter and his wife appears with a camera, after a photo shoot we are off following across the city and it is miles, we had not gone far enough North. His name is Danny and he leads us past a scooter garage and toots and waves and took us straight to the door of our preferred hotel. We offered to buy him a drink but no, no it was a pleasure and if we want to go anywhere else whilst we are in town just call him and he will come over and guide us, what an absolute star.
We are booked into the hotel and Mike the proprietor takes us round the corner to a garage where we can get tyres. They have one set in stock which we get fitted to Martin’s as he is now on slicks and they order some for mine which will be in tomorrow or the next day. We also get some good advice here on a route to follow around Columbia and things to see and visit. Good advice is also given on what to look out for and how to stay safe, particularly in the cities, in fairness there are parts of London you wouldn’t go at night, so once again really nice people and extremely helpful and friendly.
Thursday, 17 February 2011
17th February Columbia – Papayan 181 miles
Left nice and early this morning and did the 30 odd miles to Pasto. Found a tyre shop and asked for tyres for motorbikes and yes no problem that was until they saw the size we wanted. None of that size in Pasto but there will be some in Cali.
We stopped and had a bit of breakfast and then got some money before heading off towards Cali. I got some guidance from a policeman and we found the road no problem, that makes a change, however a mile down the road and it is closed off. The police were just waving us away but I asked how we get on the Cali road and a minibus pulled up next to us, the policeman spoke to the minibus driver and gave him some instructions and then told us to follow him. Well we ducked and dived down all sorts of side streets and then came out on the Cale road but right by another lorry blockade, which must be why the road was closed further back. We managed to get through by driving down the drainage gully and we were on our way, wow!
Further down the road at the first peage, it was coned off but we were allowed through and there was a massive queue of lorries the other side I guess trying to get into Pasto to try to close it down. Further outside the town was a car park choc a block with coaches and a gas station full of lorries. We will see what the rest of the journey is like.
We have made good progress and stop for a bite to eat and just before we leave Martin has a chat with a local who tells us Cali is still 4 hours away, we are not going to get there then so plan B is Papayan.
As we arrive in Papayan we see a Yamaha dealer and a Honda dealer with a tyre supplier in between them. We enquire about tyres but nothing that big in this town but should be fine in Cali. Thats fine it was just a chance anyway having seen the stores.
We have found a hotel and should make Cali tomorrow where we will probably spend a couple of days.
We have now run out of time to enable us to get to Central America and do it justice so we will probably stay in Columbia and tour around and explore it thoroughly, we may even go to Venezuela but we will see how time goes and where we need to ship the bikes back from..
We stopped and had a bit of breakfast and then got some money before heading off towards Cali. I got some guidance from a policeman and we found the road no problem, that makes a change, however a mile down the road and it is closed off. The police were just waving us away but I asked how we get on the Cali road and a minibus pulled up next to us, the policeman spoke to the minibus driver and gave him some instructions and then told us to follow him. Well we ducked and dived down all sorts of side streets and then came out on the Cale road but right by another lorry blockade, which must be why the road was closed further back. We managed to get through by driving down the drainage gully and we were on our way, wow!
Further down the road at the first peage, it was coned off but we were allowed through and there was a massive queue of lorries the other side I guess trying to get into Pasto to try to close it down. Further outside the town was a car park choc a block with coaches and a gas station full of lorries. We will see what the rest of the journey is like.
We have made good progress and stop for a bite to eat and just before we leave Martin has a chat with a local who tells us Cali is still 4 hours away, we are not going to get there then so plan B is Papayan.
As we arrive in Papayan we see a Yamaha dealer and a Honda dealer with a tyre supplier in between them. We enquire about tyres but nothing that big in this town but should be fine in Cali. Thats fine it was just a chance anyway having seen the stores.
We have found a hotel and should make Cali tomorrow where we will probably spend a couple of days.
We have now run out of time to enable us to get to Central America and do it justice so we will probably stay in Columbia and tour around and explore it thoroughly, we may even go to Venezuela but we will see how time goes and where we need to ship the bikes back from..
16th February Quito – Columbia 184 miles
We got an early start today and are headed for Pasto in Columbia, the road is quite built up a lot of the way, so not fast but we are making good progress. We have the usual navigational problems, such as coming to a roundabout and no signage or indication of where to go, it would seem that here we can go straight or left as they seem to loop and join again.
When we get to the join we realise that we have missed the Equator, we were expecting some sort of sign to denote the fact you are crossing the equator, but nothing, anyway we have crossed it so now back in the Northern hemisphere.
When we get to the border there are probably 50 – 60 people waiting for immigration on the Equidorian side and one person processing, this could take a while, thankfully another person comes so we get through twice as fast. The Arsenal Barcelona football game is on whilst we are waiting and we see Arsenal win so keep our mouths shut as we are surrounded by Spanish speaking and therefore probably Spanish supporting people.
Having done immigration on to Aduana, customs and clock the bike out of Ecuador then across the bridge to Columbia. OMG, what is going on here, there are two trucks completely blocking the road. We are beckoned on and sqeeze through a pedestrian gap and then have to cross a drainage gully and we are in the car park. Into immigration, thats quick as there are only 4 of us to process and then round to Aduana. On arriving they say they want photocopies of all our documents including the stamp we just got on our passport, so back to immigration, as that is where the photocopier service is, get the copies and return to Aduana.
This whole border is blocked by about 20 trucks all jack-knifed and intermingled with signs on them. We asked the customs guy what was going on and apparently the government want transport charges down and the hauliers want them up so this border has been locked down for 15 days and he also told us that the road to Cali is blocked, we are headed there, but they were happy about motorcycles to come through here so we may get through, we’ll see.
Over a few more pavements and we are through but it has taken hours and althoughwe were doing really well for time we are now pushing the daylight, not what we wanted for the first day in Columbia.
Peering through the pouring rain we eventually find a cabana and haul up for the night. There is a restaurant just up the road, so dinner and an early night and we will get to Pasto in the morning and try to search out some tyres.
When we get to the join we realise that we have missed the Equator, we were expecting some sort of sign to denote the fact you are crossing the equator, but nothing, anyway we have crossed it so now back in the Northern hemisphere.
When we get to the border there are probably 50 – 60 people waiting for immigration on the Equidorian side and one person processing, this could take a while, thankfully another person comes so we get through twice as fast. The Arsenal Barcelona football game is on whilst we are waiting and we see Arsenal win so keep our mouths shut as we are surrounded by Spanish speaking and therefore probably Spanish supporting people.
Having done immigration on to Aduana, customs and clock the bike out of Ecuador then across the bridge to Columbia. OMG, what is going on here, there are two trucks completely blocking the road. We are beckoned on and sqeeze through a pedestrian gap and then have to cross a drainage gully and we are in the car park. Into immigration, thats quick as there are only 4 of us to process and then round to Aduana. On arriving they say they want photocopies of all our documents including the stamp we just got on our passport, so back to immigration, as that is where the photocopier service is, get the copies and return to Aduana.
This whole border is blocked by about 20 trucks all jack-knifed and intermingled with signs on them. We asked the customs guy what was going on and apparently the government want transport charges down and the hauliers want them up so this border has been locked down for 15 days and he also told us that the road to Cali is blocked, we are headed there, but they were happy about motorcycles to come through here so we may get through, we’ll see.
Over a few more pavements and we are through but it has taken hours and althoughwe were doing really well for time we are now pushing the daylight, not what we wanted for the first day in Columbia.
Peering through the pouring rain we eventually find a cabana and haul up for the night. There is a restaurant just up the road, so dinner and an early night and we will get to Pasto in the morning and try to search out some tyres.
15th February Riobamba – Quito 144 miles
Nice breakfast, as you would expect and we are off to Quito. The ride is uneventful apart from the usual, finding the right road out of the city. Thankfully we seem to be out of landslip areas or they just clean up here a lot more quickly. We go through a lot of built up and industrial areas on the way and finally we arrive in Quito.
First stop is to find some tyres as both of mine are mainly bald, so of to the BMW main agent. No they don’t stock tyres but inform us where a tyre place is that should have them, I asked if they would ohone them for us as trecking round the city on the offchance is no fun. Yes they have 2 fronts and no rears, not terribly helpful, how long would it take for BMW to order some in, 25 days!! Hmmm.
Whilst we are there a chap turns up on a new GSA and we got talking to him He is Columbian, originally from Cali an now lives here, he advised us not to buy tyres in Ecuador as we will pay double what they will cost in Columbia.
So the sum of it all is that he took us to a motorcycle mechanic who has fitted the nearly worn out spares we have been carrying, to my bike and we should both get to Cali without problem and will buy tyres there.
First stop is to find some tyres as both of mine are mainly bald, so of to the BMW main agent. No they don’t stock tyres but inform us where a tyre place is that should have them, I asked if they would ohone them for us as trecking round the city on the offchance is no fun. Yes they have 2 fronts and no rears, not terribly helpful, how long would it take for BMW to order some in, 25 days!! Hmmm.
Whilst we are there a chap turns up on a new GSA and we got talking to him He is Columbian, originally from Cali an now lives here, he advised us not to buy tyres in Ecuador as we will pay double what they will cost in Columbia.
So the sum of it all is that he took us to a motorcycle mechanic who has fitted the nearly worn out spares we have been carrying, to my bike and we should both get to Cali without problem and will buy tyres there.
14th February Cuenca – Riobamba 168 miles
We got away reasonably early today so should make Quito but we are going to visit an Inca ruin en route. The weather is foul yet again and we still wending our way around and over the mountains, dodging rocks and peering through fog.
After 2 hours we arrive at the Inca ruin and realize that we have only done 55 miles. We go off around the ruins still wearing our crash helmets as it is still pouring, it is quite interesting and much bigger than we thought it would be but the weather does not inspire us to spend ages contemplating it.
We have 200 miles to go and 3 ½ hours, should be a breeze but we know we won’t make it so plan K, pick a town you like the sound of en route, Riobamba, that will do.
We are still running in pouring rain and very often, fog. I arrived at a right hand bend and noticed as I was mid bend a band of mud about 3 meters wide covering the whole width of the road, my immediate reaction was to come up and use more road but I noticed through the gloom an artic coming towards me so I had no alternative but to commit to the bend and hope for some grip. Almast as soon as my front wheel hit the mud it slid away and I was down, fortunately as the back wheel hit it it also slid and spun the bike round which kept me on my side of the road. A pick up following the lorry enquired if I was OK and I said yes but solicited their help to lift the bike up, it was all quite hairy as it was thick for in the middle of a bend, but apart from a few scratches to the crash bars and pannier, no harm done.
When I caught up to Martin I relayed what had happened and he enquired which bend because he had had a similar experience it transpires on the same bend. He did what I was going to do until I saw the lorry and went right across the road staying upright and then ventured backacross the road and a lorry was coming and all he could hear were air horns and air brakes and he just got back across. So dodgy moments for both of us in the same place.
We come into Riobambe which is quite a large town and find a hotel out of the guide which is a real gem. We are on the 8th floor, so great views of the city and our bathroom has a floor to ceiling window, so that you can sit in the bath, which has lights in it and look out across the night sky of the city. Lots of other things such as Wifi, restaurant and gymnasium which we didn’t try.
Quito tomorrow for sure!!
After 2 hours we arrive at the Inca ruin and realize that we have only done 55 miles. We go off around the ruins still wearing our crash helmets as it is still pouring, it is quite interesting and much bigger than we thought it would be but the weather does not inspire us to spend ages contemplating it.
We have 200 miles to go and 3 ½ hours, should be a breeze but we know we won’t make it so plan K, pick a town you like the sound of en route, Riobamba, that will do.
We are still running in pouring rain and very often, fog. I arrived at a right hand bend and noticed as I was mid bend a band of mud about 3 meters wide covering the whole width of the road, my immediate reaction was to come up and use more road but I noticed through the gloom an artic coming towards me so I had no alternative but to commit to the bend and hope for some grip. Almast as soon as my front wheel hit the mud it slid away and I was down, fortunately as the back wheel hit it it also slid and spun the bike round which kept me on my side of the road. A pick up following the lorry enquired if I was OK and I said yes but solicited their help to lift the bike up, it was all quite hairy as it was thick for in the middle of a bend, but apart from a few scratches to the crash bars and pannier, no harm done.
When I caught up to Martin I relayed what had happened and he enquired which bend because he had had a similar experience it transpires on the same bend. He did what I was going to do until I saw the lorry and went right across the road staying upright and then ventured backacross the road and a lorry was coming and all he could hear were air horns and air brakes and he just got back across. So dodgy moments for both of us in the same place.
We come into Riobambe which is quite a large town and find a hotel out of the guide which is a real gem. We are on the 8th floor, so great views of the city and our bathroom has a floor to ceiling window, so that you can sit in the bath, which has lights in it and look out across the night sky of the city. Lots of other things such as Wifi, restaurant and gymnasium which we didn’t try.
Quito tomorrow for sure!!
Tuesday, 15 February 2011
13th February Caraimanga –Cuenca 222 miles
Well although it is Sunday morning the town is very busy outside and very noisy, goodness knows when these people sleep. No breakfast at the hotel so we go in search, there is a market selling mainly foodstuffs and we see some vegetables we don’t even recognize. They grow rice, mangos, banans, grapes and just about everything else they need.
After breakfast we pack up nd head out of town in the rain finding our route quite quickly for a change and the raod out is a lot better than the road in. After about 9 miles I realize I have left my Camelpac hanging in the room so a dash back to town to retrieve it costs us the best part of an hour.
Having got to Lojo we stop for gas and can now decide on a destination, we were unsure how long it would take to travel this road after our experience last night but thankfully it was much better that we thought apart from the mass of potholes, not to much clay though.
Cuenca is the target, 85 miles and 4 hours according to the sat nav, how can it take that long, well we know that now.
So far today we left in rain it was dry for a short time but that is now a distant memory as it is tipping down. The route takes us through fog and the road winds up and down the mountains with very regular land slips showering rocks all over the road, so you really need to concentrate on this one.
A couple of highlights, firstly a sign that confirmed the distance as 55k, 33 miles, and soon after that the fog cleared, this be fine now and we will get to town before dark.
We will try for Quito again tomorrow, about 250 miles now.
After breakfast we pack up nd head out of town in the rain finding our route quite quickly for a change and the raod out is a lot better than the road in. After about 9 miles I realize I have left my Camelpac hanging in the room so a dash back to town to retrieve it costs us the best part of an hour.
Having got to Lojo we stop for gas and can now decide on a destination, we were unsure how long it would take to travel this road after our experience last night but thankfully it was much better that we thought apart from the mass of potholes, not to much clay though.
Cuenca is the target, 85 miles and 4 hours according to the sat nav, how can it take that long, well we know that now.
So far today we left in rain it was dry for a short time but that is now a distant memory as it is tipping down. The route takes us through fog and the road winds up and down the mountains with very regular land slips showering rocks all over the road, so you really need to concentrate on this one.
A couple of highlights, firstly a sign that confirmed the distance as 55k, 33 miles, and soon after that the fog cleared, this be fine now and we will get to town before dark.
We will try for Quito again tomorrow, about 250 miles now.
12th February Piura – Cariamianga 159 miles
We had a late start today as we had to wait to pick up laundry having run out of clean clothes, it wouldn’t be ready until 1pm. So into town for a leisurely breakfast, it is funny that a lot of hotels don’t’ serve breakfast, and then we can chill in the square and do a bit of reading, I in fact double the total amount read since we left home.
We manage to get underway just after 1 and first stop is fuel, well a lot of people are interested in us and our bikes but this has to be the biggest gathering we have had, there must be 20 plus people gathered around us at the pumps.
Once out of town we seem to progress reasonably well and then we hit a large town and completely lose the road again, how can that happen, I think once you are there they don’t want you to leave. That probably cost us 20 – 30 minutes and we eventually had a young chap on his motorcycle guide us to where the road was.
The border is only 100 miles but it takes us until 4.30 pm to get there and we have no idea why it took so long other than the hold up in that town.
We then start the process of clocking out of Peru which is normally the easy bit and then getting us into Ecuador and the long winded bit, checking the bikes in through customs. Not too painful and we are away at about 5.30 – 5.45.
One of the customs guys has told Martin that our chosen destination is 4 hours away, so we wont be going there. The next major town is 35 miles according to the sat nav and we are told it will take 2 i/2 hours, how can 35 miles take 2 ½ hours?
Well the road is paved and is supposed to be all the way, some of the surface leaves a bit to be desired with repaired potholes and the occasional bit of gravel. The road begins to climb and twist and although we seem to be doing quite well the sat nav decreases its mileage about 1 in 2, in fact it stays on 22 for ages and eventually goes to 19 and then back to 22. We have now run into cloud or fog, same difference we cannot see a thing and guess what it is dusking.
To add to the joy the road has washed away in places so we are going over wet clay and the road narrows to one vehicle width where the other bit has disappeared into the valley below.
We stopped in a little village but nowhere to stay, we contemplated asking if we could sleep in the church but soldiered on instead.
We came to a dual carriageway with a very ornate central reservation but the road was clay and mud, how mad is that. Soon after at 8 o’clock we crawled into the town and stopped at the very first hotel and booked in, we still don’t know how much it costs but were most relieved to be here.
The mileage from the border by the way was just over 50, I think they drew a straight line rather than a very wiggly one.
We manage to get underway just after 1 and first stop is fuel, well a lot of people are interested in us and our bikes but this has to be the biggest gathering we have had, there must be 20 plus people gathered around us at the pumps.
Once out of town we seem to progress reasonably well and then we hit a large town and completely lose the road again, how can that happen, I think once you are there they don’t want you to leave. That probably cost us 20 – 30 minutes and we eventually had a young chap on his motorcycle guide us to where the road was.
The border is only 100 miles but it takes us until 4.30 pm to get there and we have no idea why it took so long other than the hold up in that town.
We then start the process of clocking out of Peru which is normally the easy bit and then getting us into Ecuador and the long winded bit, checking the bikes in through customs. Not too painful and we are away at about 5.30 – 5.45.
One of the customs guys has told Martin that our chosen destination is 4 hours away, so we wont be going there. The next major town is 35 miles according to the sat nav and we are told it will take 2 i/2 hours, how can 35 miles take 2 ½ hours?
Well the road is paved and is supposed to be all the way, some of the surface leaves a bit to be desired with repaired potholes and the occasional bit of gravel. The road begins to climb and twist and although we seem to be doing quite well the sat nav decreases its mileage about 1 in 2, in fact it stays on 22 for ages and eventually goes to 19 and then back to 22. We have now run into cloud or fog, same difference we cannot see a thing and guess what it is dusking.
To add to the joy the road has washed away in places so we are going over wet clay and the road narrows to one vehicle width where the other bit has disappeared into the valley below.
We stopped in a little village but nowhere to stay, we contemplated asking if we could sleep in the church but soldiered on instead.
We came to a dual carriageway with a very ornate central reservation but the road was clay and mud, how mad is that. Soon after at 8 o’clock we crawled into the town and stopped at the very first hotel and booked in, we still don’t know how much it costs but were most relieved to be here.
The mileage from the border by the way was just over 50, I think they drew a straight line rather than a very wiggly one.
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